Border monastery, ionnina, metsovo and reservoir overnight

Having gone through the most rigorous customs check at the Albanian border since setting off on our travels (which included an X-ray of Vinnie) it was early evening so we decided to overnight in the small town of Kalpaki approx an hour from the border. Before leaving the next morning we took a pleasant walk to a local monastery and then visited the war memorial overlooking the town erected in remembrance of the resistance of the local people against the Italian forces in October/November 1940.

Our next stop took us to Ionnina with its old fortified city containing a number of museums, a mosque and the grave of Ali Pasha who had ruled from Ionnina which in his time had included an area that covered the entire north western part of Greece, southern Albania, Thessaly and the northern parts of the Peloponnese for forty years. His court influenced many leaders of the time including the major figures of the revolution which bought about Greek independence. Arriving late in the day we were unable to visit all the museums but did get to go around the Silver museum which historically had been a school for silversmiths. What made this visit interesting is the museum through it’s exhibits explained the historical development of the methods and tools used in the process of the Silversmiths work alongside some interesting and intricate pieces.

Whilst searching for a stopover we had read a recommendation about a wild camping site high up in the Pindos mountains overlooking a reservoir so decided to investigate and make it our next stop. Our planned route took us via the town of Metsovo which was known for its local cheeses, wine and woodworking and is also a popular winter sports destination. The local population have their own language called Aromanian or Vlach originating from the southern Balkans.

After purchasing a variety of cheeses,wine made in the local monastery and sitting down in the local square for coffee and cake we started the climb upwards to the reservoir. Twisting and winding our way up some very steep mountain roads with spectacular views (which was terrifying for myself as I do not like heights) we suddenly found ourselves on this amazing plateau which contained not only the reservoir, shepherds and their flocks of goats but also acres of market gardening poly tunnels. It was an amazing wild camping night with pitch black dark skies but incredibly cold. My interest was aroused by what looked like large clumps of cotton wool on the tips of some of the surrounding conifers, on investigation it turned out to be massive webs of either some giant spider or an insect of unknown origin. On our way back across the plateau we stopped to say hello to a local shepherd who spoke a little English and who’s main thread of conversation was Boris Johnson! Whom he appeared to find exceedingly amusing.