San Pedro de Atacama

A tourist trap serving the backpackers travelling across the borders to and from Bolivia and Argentina. As you walk into town every other doorway takes you into a tour guide company or money exchange and on the back of these the obligatory bar, cafe and restaurant. Yet take one of the many tours into the surrounding area and you find yourself in a dramatic and surreal landscape.

After discarding our bags we headed into town and a variety of the tour companies to compare prices and although slightly more expensive chose a three tour package with Terra Extrema as they offered an English speaking guide and came across as more professional than the other three we had approached. We also managed to get a reduction on a fourth half day tour.

Tour 1 Valle de la Luna – we joined our fellow travellers at the Terra Extreme offices at 4pm and left to catch the sunset. Stopping first to climb to the top of a ridge from which there was a 360degree view of the valley needless to say I opted out when I saw the climb yes I would have made a valiant effort to get to the top but looking at it I knew my fear of heights would kick in then where would the group be? Instead I left the courageous ones to it and set off the lone walker on what I could see was an easier route which would still enable me to take some stunning photos.

Next came a trip to a “cave” (more a large cleft in the rocks ) winding our way through we could appreciate the layered rock formation and the salts and minerals retained in them.

Then joining what appeared to be every tour bus in town it was a mad dash to catch the sunset, sorry to say disappointing probably because the sun went down quite quickly behind the mountain and very little moisture in the air to reflect light.

Tour2 A full day tour taking in the village of Toconao with its pretty bell Tower then onto breathtaking views as we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn dropping down to Laguna Miscanti and Laguna Miniques.

Unfortunately a selfish tourist had upset the locals when he decided to go windsurfing on a lake near the red rocks where flamingoes were nesting which put a stop to future tours having full access. Fortunately our driver knew where we could have limited access for photo opportunities so managed to get some photos.

Final stop of the day was after lunch at the flamingo reserve on Salar de Atacama and stepping out the van wow was it hot obviously the salt was just reflecting all the heat. Here we saw the Andean and Chilean flamingo besides a pair of Chilean avocets.

Having seen flamingoes in the north then again here further south one can appreciate the different environments in which they appear to thrive, greener and cooler in Putre and a dry desert environment in San Pedro.

What a full on enjoyable day.

Day3 – A 4am start to get to the Tatio geysers which are close to the Argentinian border at 4300metres above sea level. Everyone emerging from the van bleary eyed due to the early start.

It is the worlds heighest geyser field with sixty four geysers spurting steam to a temperature of 84 degrees described in the guide books as a Dantesque vision, it did not disappoint.

Returning we stopped at an abandoned mining village abutted by a newer small settlement of subsistence farmers who had also tapped into the passing tourist trade by offering food and locally made crafts.

Day 4 – Our final day and a half day tour to see the Petroglyphs (rock carvings ) at Hierbas Buenas two sets of carvings aged between 1200 and 2000 years old set yet again in stunning rock formations. The carvings were a record by the original settlers of what their life was like showing what was a challenge or success. We finished our tour at the area known as Valle arcoiris (or rainbow valley). The name comes from the rock formations of many colours caused by the different chemical composition of the silica rocks.